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ResourcesAlpha Arbutin, the more effective, faster, and safer approach to skin lightening. Download PDF.
Caviar Extract is described as one of the most prized and valued cosmetics ingredients. Download PDF.
AHA is the Acronym for alpha hydroxy acid. These are derived from various plant sources or from milk. In low concentrations (less than 3%)AHAs work as water-binding agents. At concentrations over 4% and in a base with an acid pH of 3 to 4, these can exfoliate skin cells by breaking down the substance in skin that holds skin cells together. The most effective and well-researched AHAs are glycolic acid and lactic acid. Malic acid, citric acid, and tartaric acid may also be effective, but are less stable and less skin-friendly; there is little research showing that they have any benefit for skin
AHAs may irritate mucous membranes and cause irritation. However, they
are widely used for therapy of photodamaged skin, and also have been
reported to normalize hyperkeratinization (over-thickened skin) and to
increase viable epidermal thickness and dermal glycosaminoglycans
content. A vast amount of research has substantially described how the
aging process affects the skin and has demonstrated that many of the
unwanted changes can be improved by topical application of AHAs, including glycolic and lactic acid
(Sources: Plastic and Reconstructive Surgery, April 2005, pages 1156–1162; Cutis, August 2001, pages 135–142; Journal of the European Academy of Dermatology and Venereology, July 2000, pages 280–284; American Journal of Clinical Dermatology, March-April 2000, pages 81–88; Skin Pharmacology and Applied Skin Physiology, May-June 1999, pages 111–119; Dermatologic Surgery, August 1997, pages 689–694 and May 2001 pages 1–5; Journal of Cell Physiology, October 1999, pages 14–23; and British Journal of Dermatology, December 1996, pages 867–875).
Because AHAs exfoliate sun-damaged skin from the surface of the skin, and because this layer imparts some (albeit minimal) sun protection for skin, there is a risk of increased sun sensitivity after using an AHA (Source: Photodermatology, Photoimmunology, and Photomedicine, February 2003, pages 21–27). However, wearing a sunscreen eliminates this risk.
Arbutin is isolated from the leaves of the bearberry shrub, cranberry, blueberry, some mushrooms, and most types of pears. It can have melanin-inhibiting properties. Although the research describing it’s effectiveness is persuasive (even though most of the research has been performed on animals or in vitro), concentration protocols have not been established. That means we just don’t know how much arbutin it takes to have an effect in lightening the skin. Many cosmetics companies use plant extracts that contain arbutin, such as bearberry and mulberry leaf extract, but again, there is limited research, mostly animal studies or in vitro, showing that the arbutib-containing plant extracts used in skin-care products have any impact on skin. Whether or not these extracts are effective in the small amounts present in cosmetics has not been established (Sources: Phytotherapy Research, July 2004, pages 475–479; Biological & Pharmaceutical Bulletin, April 2004, pages 510–524; Clinical and Experimental Dermatology, September 2002, pages 513–515; Analytical Biochemistry, June 2002, pages 260–268, and June 1999, pages 207–219; Pigment Cell Research, August 1998, pages 206–212; and Journal of Pharmacology and Experimental Therapeutics, February 1996, pages 765–769).BHA(Salicylic Acid) is a multifunctional ingredient derived from willow bark extract. It addresses many of the systemic causes of blemishes (Source: Seminars in Dermatology, December 1990, pages 305–308). For decades dermatologists have been prescribing this as an exceedingly effective keratolytic (exfoliant), but it also is an anti-irritant.This is because it is a derivative of aspirin (both are salicylates), and so it also functions as an anti-inflammatory (Sources: Archives of Internal Medicine, July 2002, pages 1531–1532; Annals of Dermatology and Venereology, January 2002, pages 137–142; Archives of Dermatology, November 2000, pages 1390–1395; and Pain, January 1996, pages 71–82). Another notable aspect of of salicylic acid for treating breakouts is that it has antimicrobial properties (Sources: Preservatives for Cosmetics, 1996, by David Steinberg, Allured Publishing; and Health Canada Monograph Category IV, Antiseptic Cleansers, www.hc-sc.gc.ca/english/). It is also well documented that salicylic acid can improve skin thickness, barrier functions, and collagen production (Sources: Dermatology, 1999, volume 199, number 1, pages 50–53; and Toxicology and Applied Pharmacology, volume 175, issue 1, pages 76–82). As an exfoliant, in concentrations of 8% to 12%, it is effective in wart-remover medications. In concentrations of 0.5% to 2%, it is far more gentle, and, much like AHAs (See AHA), can exfoliate the surface of skin. In addition, BHA has the ability to penetrate into the pore (AHAs do not), and thus can exfoliate inside the pore as well as on the surface of the skin, which makes it effective for reducing blemishes, including blackheads and whiteheads.
Kojic Acid. By-product of the fermentation process of malting rice for use in the manufacture of sake, Japanese rice wine. There is definitely convincing research, both in vitro and in vivo and in animal studies, showing that kojic acid is effective for inhibiting melanin production (Sources: Biological and Pharmaceutical Bulletin, August 2002, pages 1045–1048; Analytical Biochemistry, June 2002, pages 260–268; Cellular Signaling, September 2002, pages 779–785; American Journal of Clinical Dermatology, September–October 2000, pages 261–268; and Archives of Pharmacal Research, August 2001, pages 307–31
